Probably some of you know just how much I love roses and how much I hate the overwhelming oud. I like prominent roses and a mellowed oud, nicely reduced to silence. If these two notes appear this way within a perfume, then it’s a promising one. If the two are also of high quality and have an intelligent dialogue, then I start to be satisfied. And if the two manage to obtain a unique mélange, sensual, full of rhythm, and contrast, then I will be totally won over.
Tom Ford Noir De Noir Eau de Parfum falls into the third category. I know it for a long time and, as well, I read about it everything about how much it is praised. Let’s be honest now, oud perfumes are produced longer than the Europeans know about it, about since, well, the hysteria around oud in the niche perfumery started. If we are to pick a mark, a perfume that triggered this trend in the West is not other than Tom Ford Noir De Noir Eau de Parfum– a duet between the rose and a reference oud.
My ignorant and uneducated nose when it comes to ouds is not capable of distinguishing more than two types of oud, although there are many more out there. So, let me tell you about the ones I know: the first is the false oud, the synthetic one, recomposed out of woody and amber notes – the Norlimbanol, which smells very explosive, masculine, impulsive and dry, also being the most commonly met these days, and the second is the real oud, the velvety one – when it is well proportioned, of infinitely greater finesse yet still manages to maintain a certain degree of fierceness.
When it comes to the first, I find it attractive in masculine perfumes, except feeling it on my skin! However, Tom Ford picked the real oud for the creation of Tom Ford Noir De Noir Eau de Parfum and played with it like the most refined juggler. He practically lured it into a dense bush of sinful roses, like in a vipers’ nest, that kind of burgundy roses with wrapped and sleepy petals, and left it alone to manage the situation.
Thus, the oud and queen of flowers give each other an up-and-down like true adversaries, sniff each other and boil with rage, but instead of jumping into a fight, they make love. They welter in bushes of patchouli, slide on leaves and dirt, and, finally, they come together on the soft and sweet surface of vanilla. Artistically, velvety, and erotic. Tom Ford Noir De Noir Eau de Parfum is a rose venom. I don’t know if there’s another more sensual and dark perfume than this one and I believe that I have not yet fully discovered it. Each time I wear it I find something new about it. I could continue describing it until tomorrow, but I will end it here so I can savor it with closed eyes on and on…