The most delicate detail of perfumery, after the creation itself, of course, is all about maintaining the formula intact. Especially when we are talking about a successful one. Reformulations are part of the plan and must be regarded in a realistic manner – usually, the composition of a perfume released by a big house contains ingredients that come from various sources, essences ordered from large laboratories, which, in their own turn, depend on yields, weather, and other factors. I am talking about natural essences.
The rest, almost anything can be reproduced in a laboratory. But still, even if we like to think that everything resumes around chemistry, it’s not like that at all. A good perfume can still contain Egyptian jasmine, Mysore sandalwood, or Haiti vetiver. And, sometimes, if the prime matter is scarce, there’s the risk for the perfume that contains it to be either reformulated or have its production stopped. Some play fair lately, with their cards on the table. Or at least that’s what they say. Guerlain, for instance.
Wasser claims that if it can’t maintain a perfume’s formula (if in spite of its “ability” to patch the note of the perfume it still doesn’t resemble the initial version), it will prefer to temporarily stop producing the perfume. Others, just like those from the Swiss niche brand Richard Lüscher Britos, prefer working entirely with the essences they produce. They have various plant cultures around the world (each perfume has in its name the geographical coordinates of the dominant note).
But most houses choose to deny the fact that they adjusted the formula. Noooooo, everything is the same, unchanged – we are the ones that changed, not the formula! LOL! Dior truncated in the past years the most popular perfumes in its collection and I haven’t read any confessions about this aspect anywhere. Or maybe something may have slipped my attention? If anyone knows anything, please let me know. One thing is certain: Addict, Diorissimo, Dolce Vita, Hypnotic Poison, Cherie 200 are not what they used to be and everyone is well aware of it. This thing made me stop following their latest releases.
Maybe also because I was afraid that if I will end up liking a new Dior, I don’t have the guarantee that I will find it intact in case I will want another bottle. So, I missed the moment when Le Parfum was released and I was already bedazzled by so many Miss Dior editions. Only not until this year, I gave it a chance and it was the first moment, after many years, when I actually found that wow factor in a Dior perfume. It made me so happy! For a launch like this I am ready to forgive all their reformulations (I say this with ease because I have a supply of Addict, the good stuff ), but with one condition: to keep it intact this time or they’ll get war!
Miss Dior Le parfum comes to remind you that, at its base, Dior creates haute couture and it is very good at transforming this into a perfume. Christian Dior studied architecture and this influenced his visions in fashion and perfumery alike – the classic Dior creations are structural, built on various plans. The tradition was kept and Demachy chose the most refined materials for an ample and dense cut. A statement scent. A woman’s perfume. Rich, sweet, convincing, Miss Dior Le parfum is about amber-patchouli prepared from seduction right from the start and until the last moment.
The perfume is full, has a viscous air, but unusually gracious in the end and this is one of its mysteries. All is well weighed here, although it seems to have 1000 elements. It seems to be a huge mosaic of rhythm and symmetry. I don’t know how Demachy handled it! There’s so much pressure and force into it that each time I expect to see its cap pop out.
It teases the senses, dictates, seduces, and bedazzles. When I pass through the hallway, I sniff it on the go from my jacket. When I go to sleep, I pleasantly feel it in my hair. It has one single rival out in the world, Coco from Chanel, with whom it reaches the same stylistic level. They don’t directly resemble when it comes to smell, but they do have the same strong personality. This is why when I wear Miss Dior Le parfum, I prefer keeping it on a leash with just two sprays. To remind it that I take it, not the other way around.