When Kurkdjian produced his first perfume with oud in the Maison collection, I needed no more than 5 seconds to decide that we’re not a fit. That oud had precisely the smell of medicine, of a dental office, with a plastic-like effect in spite of its preciousness because, without a doubt, it is of high quality and which, against its visibly low and Europeanized dosage, manages to alert all my senses. As a conclusion, it was natural for me to decide that there’s a character misfit between me and the oud envisioned by the perfumer.
But with Satin Mood, things settled in a more fortunate manner, due to a generous addition of floral-gourmand notes. Yet still, we haven’t connected this time either. Satin Mood is the perfume of sweet and candied violets, and neon pink and sugary roses, flowers that impose themselves as tall, leaving behind a gourmand train. The vanilla doesn’t appear textured and real, but what does it matter, it’s there and contours the floral notes with a precise and firm line. The perfume sits nicely, it’s entirely feminine – I cannot imagine how a man, with his clothes in print, could get compliments while wearing such a feminine aroma – and has an ideal persistency. It is sumptuous, rich, and very sweet.
I can’t say though that it is also very refined. Maybe it’s because of the too exaggerated sweetness. I’ve smelled gourmands that were done finner. I do savor it sometimes, just like I rarely enjoy seeing an action blockbuster, special effects, pam-pam, budget, popcorn, and Pepsi. Astonishingly, those from Laurent Durmont made, a few years ago, a perfume very similar to this one, like anticipating the arrival of Satin Mood, called Vanille Violette. Alright, that one has no oud whatsoever, but why send the minuscule oud from Satin Mood to take a walk, as it will leave you precisely, but PRECISELY, with the same floral-gourmand scent.