I think that this is the only Serge Lutens perfume that was not created by Christopher Sheldrake, but by Maurice Roucel, and I must say that in spite of the fact that the entire Serge Lutens line is dark and mysterious, this Iris Silver Mist by Roucel beats them all. It’s time for the author of Insolence and Musc Ravageur to come back to the creation table of Palais Royal, what do you say Monsieur Lutens? Or at least to see some sort of collaboration between the two perfumers, a perfume worked in tandem by two masters of the dark… Iris Silver Mist is from the incipient period of the Lutens house.
The Bois series was created before it, the various interpretations of the Feminite du Bois. Woody, sweet, and smoky perfumes, wrapped in warm notes of candied fruits and pine-tree leaves. Love! This iris produced a huge contrast in comparison with all these. And more than this, it was that kind of contrast that we would like to see more often in other houses as well, which have the same speech over and over again and so rarely a rhythm twitch.
Isn’t it true that you rarely come across new perfumes that are actually new when it comes to smell? Iris Silver Mist appeared in the times of Yvresse, Tocade, and Jaipur, which are all sweet-fruity perfumes, the way the trend was back in the 90s.
It entered like a draft of cold air in the world of perfumes, turning everything around it into ice crystals. It is an ash iris, static, even slightly morbid. Punctured by a liturgical frankincense and wrapped in a chrysalis formed out of the perfumed resins dripped out of pine cones, this iris doesn’t show any intention of recreating that creamy and aerial makeup smell. It appears like rising from a land covered by the hoarfrost of the early morning.
A white iris with ice flowers on its petals. Curled and asleep. It makes you want to pick it up with care and take it to warmth! Only later on, when the sun shyly appears from beneath the clouds, its color becomes livelier. Warm steams come from the ground, melting the frost that keeps the iris from opening up.
Warm droplets of water fall on its stem and its corolla shakes gently, releasing a powdery smell, but yet so cold. This is how this mysterious and livid Iris Silver Mist smells in its base. The musk is the one that perturbs the cold notes, but not enough to eliminate them completely.
The perfume is very captivating to watch and it is a must-test for sure, although it is rather difficult to wear. It is melancholic like the story of a snow queen abandoned by her fiancée.