Luxirare’s Loafer
The idea of playing with a loafer was just too tempting for me so I had to delve in. After watching a short scene in Mulholland Drive where Betty and Rita both fall for the singer’s lip syncing in Club Silencio I wanted to use this scene as my inspiration for my loafer. You can check here if you want to see the scene, basically they are watching this singer who performs (lip syncs) the song “Crying” by Roy Orbison with such realistic emotion that they are both surprised when she collapses and the song continues, which proves that it was just a previously recorded tape…Anyway, the idea was to create a slip on loafer illusion with nude leather. Here are some quick process photos and then onto the final design. Didn’t do this to sell, a lot of times I just design things to have fun with an idea and watch it materialize into something 3-dimensional. It’s so nice to be able to do that without any planning or pressure. These fun projects always inform my other designs in ways that are really important so I always make sure to work in a couple of designs here and there purely for experimentation.


My shoe was draped on a pointy toe last; I started out with muslin to develop the pattern. This part is always the least stressful.






Here I’ve styled the loafer with a blazer I just designed and skinny jeans. Again, wearing a blazer as a shirt with nothing underneath.

So I played with that nude illusion by using nude leather that perfectly matched my skin tone, but in this photo you can definitely tell (just by the sheen) that my feet look a little too wax like to be real. It was incredibly challenging to find that perfect nude tone. From afar you can’t tell that I’m wearing an ankle boot, they look more like slip ons.. which is essentially what this loafer is, just a plain ankle boot! I also wanted to create this illusion that the heel was kind of standing on nothing, kind of like if someone from afar saw these they’d ask the question, how are those heels attached directly to her bare foot…



I love having a center seam running down a shoe, especially when it’s nude, again it looks like part of your skin but then the seam is a dead giveaway.



One of the things I also experimented with was zippers. I know that invisible zippers are almost always used for delicate dresses and softly tailored pieces of clothing, but I wanted to use it for this shoe. I just fell in love with the look when I tested it out on muslin and I also like that I’ve never seen any other shoe using an invisible zipper before- kind of unexpected. It was important to me to keep this center seam (which also acts as a closure) very discreet and the invisible zipper helps me achieve this effect.





For the center portion of the loafer or the tongue I didn’t stitch it down to the nude part because I still wanted there to be a strong slip on feeling so it really feels like this part is a separate flap- if it were to be stitched down it would look too fake. The two side pattern pieces are stitched down all the way though.




this shoe is……i really dont know what to say. your blazer…is….everything is so mind blowing! I really am speechless
you are so creative… thx for sharing all you do!!
Beautiful. I was hoping to see gold embroidery on the vamps. I love how you walked us through your visionary thinking. Thank you so much for sharing.
The Maison really needs to give you a call.
That blazer is stunning!
I am absolutely in love with the white blazer you made! Such a great idea.
http://www.jeuneetconne.com
how simple yet intricate! the tongue part kinda reminds me of the new alexander wang shoes. I always enjoy reading your blog!
genius
I really dig the trompe l’oeil effect, and then the seam that gives it away when you stare closer. I love everything you do!
Love the simple blazer you just designed, with the big safety pin, and the loafers are amazing!!! You are just out-of-this-world incredible!!!
xx
these shoes are.. well, i don’t know how to define them!! too beautiful, such a good creation!! and i love the fact that the nude leather goes ”underneath” the black part, it really gives the illusion you wanted
:)
That blazer is amazing! like really…amazing! The shoes feel outdated though. I’m sorry..but its the truth! Maybe a rounder front with a platform and chunkier heel. You still rock
btw, i know putting yourself completely out there is hard..and i totally appreciate that..I just assume you also want our honest opinion. So keep on producing! 99% of it is golden!
This is genius! And I really love that you explained your inspiration, this is really interesting to see how the designer’s brain find its inspiration, love the analogy with the idea behind this Mulholland Drive scene.
Beautiful!
this is amazing as always…..i really love the shape of the loafer….how regal! and the nude is on spot….very cool……
V
to be honest: the shoes look disgusting – as if you’ve killed someone to make shoes out of his skin >:-O nude on feet is so so wrong….
@Priscilla- appreciate the comment and feedback!
@Diane- Yes love that scene.
@Mira- I love a round toe and chunky heel, but sometimes I like a different shape, thanks for yr comments.
At first I got really excited that you made a shoe I can finally wear [lol] and then saw a heel and was like–it’s manageable. haha.
They remind me a bit of MMM but I’m more obsessed with your Carolyn Bessette reminiscent outfit.
Blazer is amazing!!
Though I admit I’m not really feeling the shoes (I think it’s the shape/ colour/ awkwardness of the look?).
Your work is beyond amazing and I only have good things to say!
Keep up the great work.
Admiring from afar!
I really dig the way the shoes look when you’re looking down on them. so so interesting! I think the nude color is great – I would wear all nude-coloured boots!
Amazing shoe!
oh man. if you had finished the shoe with the uber platform, like in the sketch, this would be my dream shoe. bravo!
Absolutly love the design……would a stretch fabric have improved the fit of the upper making it look more “your” skin-like? Something about the ” wrinkles” does make it look like it was removed from someones foot rather than being your own (as someone mentioned)!! Either way it is a fabulous idea and creation! Love your posts!!!
I couldn’t agree more with all the comments basically saying that the shoe is grotesque–however, that is why I love it! It’s daring, weird, and would certainly get double-takes. The fact that we humans have art shows that we’ve moved beyond our biological necessity to reproduce–we can spend time on more abstract things that won’t necessarily get us mates. Fashion, though it has its origins in mate attraction (think of a peacock), is evidence now of our ability to transcend our reproductive needs and make amazing, provocative art like these shoes.
Love your comment Emily!! Extremely well put. That is a really interesting observation & I think it’s very well thought-out (& respectfully said). It’s fine that there are some people who didn’t like the shoes, but perhaps more *constructive* criticism might have been nicer & more helpful, or some deeper insight into *why* they didn’t like them. For example were they making an assumption about how they should look or what is/isn’t attractive?
I don’t agree with the person who said they looked “dated” & that a round toe & platform heel would look less so!? They do sort of look like Luxirare skinned someone’s foot to make them though
Awesome idea either way & I love the inspiration behind it!
I am in love with the blazer! I been wanting a white blazer for so long with an edgy twist to it, and that white blazer stole my heart. I want it.
Love the concept and design of the shoe, it is different and daring. You are truly talented!
Haha. This freaks me out in some way.
That’s always been one of my favorite scenes from Mulholland Drive, and I love your interpretation of it!
OMG that DOG is so adorable. and that outfit…!!!!!
i cant.
you always leave me breathless.
Very Silence of the Lambs.
exquisite!
I think you would love the work of Kei Kagami.
The nude boot is grotesque yet oddly compelling. I love both the illusion and the dispelling of it with the placement of the zipper.
The loafer part, they’re perfect from the top. I’d've done a slightly different proportion with the profile. You must have taken the cutoff point from line where the heel material changes? I’d personally prefer the black part slightly more elongated up the foot, I feel the line would flow better in profile. Although as-is, the checquer-board effect is very striking.
The kilt-pin jacket though…! Yes.
Very clever shoes… I love their extra wrinkliness when you unzip them – it look like you’re shedding. That blazer is also incredible!!!
Those shoes are terrifying, but I can’t stop looking at them.
Oh wow, how lovely, how narrow is it? Is it going to fit on a medium almost wide feet?
How comfortable is it?
Thanks so much, love all your posts.
So simple and so ingenious.
WAY TO COOL! obsessed!
It is so refreshing and inspiring to see your creative process and various approaches to design/fashion/food etc. You use a lot of seemingly different techniques and materials and a lot of the time it isn’t something I’d ever wear, but no one can deny your talent and craftsmanship!
how wonderful to be so free to do all these things.
h a ha h a
@vdf
Thanks ‘Michelle’
This is too cool! The center zipper looks like you got stitches on the foot. This is beyond awesome, great work!
wow, amazing!
It looks lovely with the zipper!
now, this turned out to be fantastic!!!
the white jacket is such a great idea, too…
when i was young i used to like wearing jackets as a shirt,
it’s elegant and sexy at the same time.
xo
agnes
Where did you pick up shoe making? Did you learn it in school or did you just teach yourself?
This design seems to have humor. It’s reminds me of a doll’s feet… I wish the inside material was something else.
Love the blazer. Those shoes are amazing.
Love your blog. This is the first time I’ve commented.
Not that it matters but… The woman singing that song is Rebekah Del Rio and she really does sing it. I’ve seen her sing several times and she is amazing.
This is a first, something I disliked on here, those loafers are a negative. I mean, I can’t even grow to like them. But that blazer is pretty fantastic. Love it!
can you please start selling things like that lovely pin above, and other jewelry findings and grommets, etc., they’re all so interesting!
I am taking my time looking at each photo very closely and the blazer just came to the scene and I was like: Wow, where the h*** did she get that?
You do everything that I wish I could do, but better than I could even imagine. Can I shadow you for a day??
What’s that long black coat? Thanks!
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