Mar
30
Jewel Bako
How come Luxirare has never mentioned Sushi…ever? Is she crazy? Well here it is, 2 weeks ago I had one of the most spectac sushi meals in the history of dining at nearly every crap quality/ high quality sushi joint in Ny. This place has been around for 8 years but it is so low key that it could never level up to holy sushi meccas like Masa. I don’t care much for appetizers like “rock shrimp” with spicy mayo goop, a signature dish at your oh so average hyped up Japanese fusion restaurant. The longer the list of apps at a Sushi joint, the more suspicious one should be. I want to taste the freshest fish, and the most delicate rice morsels. Little pearls barely clinging together, not one sticky starchy lump of a mess.
My #1 rule for all sushi dining experiences- sit facing the chefs, at the bar, tell’em you mean business.
My first conversation with the sushi chef involves no words. A week before my dinner here I called to pre-reserve a live lobster sashimi. He brought out the live lobster, asians do this alot–They like to prove something. I look at it and nod.
While the lobster is getting ready, I start my libation with a glass of rose ‘pagne- I know this isn’t gonna end well. Alcohol is the devil’s lubricant.
The lobster comes out, barely dead its eyes still glazing around. No mercy here. The tail meat is sliced and yes it tastes fantastic. I noticed the chef kept brushing lime zest, and now it landed on my lobster. People always say they want fresh- yet when they are offered to eat something still alive they move aside…why? You say I’m out of line , forgive me. I watch too much Bourdain and Zimmern.
My first piece of sashimi arrives quickly from the bar. Like the name of this restaurant, this piece of fish garnished with an apple vinegar sauce looks like a JEWEL. Even a gold leaf was placed to crown its glory. Sweet, tangy, salty, buttery, barely-on-land freshness. Yellowtail piece sits under a soy/Yuzu mixture. “Bananaz” as Rachel Zoe says of vintage Pooch. I am starting to act like a Pap shooting all these pictures- as if Lindsay Lohan is blowing lines in front of me, and of course my embarassment increases in volume when the flash sound keeps going off. I would make a good living in Hollywood…
I look at the sushi menu again-After testing the first piece, I know this chef doesn’t fuck around. Not only is there Maguro (Tuna) Chutoro (super fatty tuna), and Toro (fatty tuna ), but a blow torched Toro. What? Yes he whips out his blow torch and fires up the top layer of my sushi. Smoky, Unctuous…. Slightly warmed and cooked on top, I could barely open my mouth and say ONE MORE please – forget about the 15$ per piece tag; I’m tipsy off ‘pagne and ravenous. My tongue is soaked with glistening fat.
Notice the score marks on the sushi, this is how you gauge what style of sushi the chef serves. When you score the fish and brush it with soy, the soy soaks into the sushi effectively. Every serious sushi chef is an artist. Even in sushi making, there are the forever 21′s, the Karl Lagerfelds, and then the ultimates like Margiela or Kawakubo. They all have different styles and ideas they want to communicate.
The scoring, and brushing… Their message is this; you eat it the way I prepare it. No customized soy dumping. This reminds me of Japan street sushi…I’m loving every second of it. This doesn’t necessarily mean its better, just different styles.
The test of a decent sushi joint is whether or not that freshly grate the Wasabi for you.. I need fresh wasabe for some Wasabe Ice cream.
Always running dry, the story of my life. I start letting go.
Ikura, Salmon Eggs. Ladies, be parsimonious about who you lay down with- sperm is cheap; eggs are expensive.
Meet Chef Yoshi (Japanese descent) and his roll assistant (Mexican descent). Their sushi making skills are on equal footing. Making delicious sushi is not only an art, but a way to expand pleasure for others. Learning how to expand pleasure in food is something that gets me up in the morning, and Chef Yoshi has passed this skill onto his assistant chef. I feel slightly envious, but my respect for him overcomes this emotion.
I watched the mexican assistant architect one of the most spectac Salmon Skin rolls ever. It is 100% true when Anthony Bourdain says that the best chefs in the world are always the “third-world line cooks” (excuse his un PC-ness)-Many times their talents exceed their teachers. I was fascinated that someone from a cheese and meat eating culture knew how to roll properly. His hands were deceptive. I wonder what he thinks of this raw fish cuisine, if he has any opinions. What if he thinks this is totally creepy and weird? What if he runs home at 2 am in the morning after work is over and gorges on beans and rice the same way I gorge on kim-chi?? I wonder, does this man eat sushi? He is damn good at making it. I am digressing….back to the subject.
Earlier I had ordered a raw shrimp sashimi. I asked the chef to fry the head. In Japan this is a snack in beer houses.
Onto the rice, the most important component. This picture reveals how perfect the rice was. The chef handles the rice so that it does not taste like one sticky clump. The art of perfect rice is having it stick together so that it doesn’t crumble on your chopsticks, but breaks apart on first chew. Hard to do, but thats the essence of Japanese food. This tells me the chef’s hands are drenched with a lightness that requires rigorous practice-This man has the cutting techniques of Elbaz @ Lanvin.. Of course when I throw lushed up compliments at him he acts shy and embarrased, as most Japanese people do; He says nothing, nods his head and turns red, even though I know his meek exterior is all display when I watch his knife tactics.
I don’t forget to order eel. One of my favorite pieces. This again, another precious jewel. This eel looks different from all the other eels I’ve had. I ask the chef what the technique is. I never tasted an eel so delicate. He says he placed a bamboo leaf on top, and then warmed the eel through with the torch. The indirect heat allows the eel to remain extremely tender. I was blown away at this point and wanted to bang my head on the bar as to why I had not known about this place.
Remember that lobster head? Yes, it landed in my soup, permeating it with the light oceanic smell. Meat is good, but the real flavor is usually in the head. I need some miso to slightly warm the raw fish sitting in my stomach.
Finally, to finish off and cleanse my palette, a jewel of an oyster comes out decked with caviar pearls and scallions diced up thin as paper. The colors are wildly beautiful. After finishing 4 glasses of ‘pagne I’m done for the night. I know that around 3-4 am a mean hangover will wake me up, with a post headache vibe for the rest of the day. I either drink nothing or go all the way. I never understood those who could stop with one glass.
My final review is this; I have no idea why this place is so underrated. I left feeling 1. drunk and 2. inferior about my shleppy sushi making skills. It motivates me. Reservations are a must on friday nights, otherwise I think it is pretty easy to get seated.
One of my fav posts ever. Your pictures are beautiful!
Is this the restaurant that only has about 12 seats?
oh my god. i need to try this place next time i’m in new york.
oh, WOW. major food porn. sushi is my favorite food of all time.
http://anniediamond.blogspot.com
japanese cuisine is my absolute favorite. once i left behind the rolls covered in sauce, tempura flakes and piles of avocado, i discovered the beautiful simplicity of fresh fish. there are some fantastic places out here in L.A. oh, and don’t even get me started on champange and oysters.
if sushi were a man, i’d be his slut. he wouldn’t need to pay me to have sex with him. p.s. i love his mexican assistant. that shit cracks me up.
oh, it looks delicious. I haven’t seen such nice sushi in switzerland yet :/
Wow, I’m new to your blog, but your pictures and posts are amazing! I’m not from NY, but the next time I’m up, I have to try this place out, what is it called?
…unless the name of the restaurant is actually the name of the post. I apologize for being an idiot.
This is your best post EVER. My boyfriend and I budget out a chunk of our paychecks specifically for sushi nights. Foodgasm….
Oh my Lord, you just made me so hungry. I’ve always heard about this place but I’ve now decided that my boyfriend and I need to go there as soon as possible…
Damnit. This post was amazing, not only is your writing such a fluid flow of water, but the pictures are just the icing on the cake.
AH I love Jewel Bako. I had no idea they made lobster sashimi—I haven’t had that since I was in Bangkok, but after seeing this post, I might have to follow your lead.
xxx,
Tiffany
oh my god toro………
oh my god
I always get so hungry when I see your pictures.
good god that was an amazing post! How do you take those photographs? I have never seen such beautiful photos – I wish you where in Canada I would have you set up my studio for photos – they are so amateur comparatively! Wonderful post
p.s. love that your pops included your site in his review on nymag! i predict an offer to be a restaurant reviewer/ food critic in your future…
Your previous pics of that Kane dress and patchwork jacket nearly made me cry with jealousy at work…. I 100% agree with you on the rice thing…it’s appalling how much poorly made claggy cold lumps of rice masquerading as sushi is around…
As a sushi lover I really enjoyed your post and agree with you how some chefs are like Karl Lagerfeld and some more like forever 21 – great analogy! My favorite place in L.A. is very similar to this place. Damn, now I want to go there.
Unagi *droool*
I must try that eel technique one day
Can’t wait to try this in NY while I’m there in June!
I just stumbled upon your blog, and I am blown away by your writing, and your passion for sushi! Not to mention, you take bloody incredible photos, as I am salivating here in my bed dying to get sushi at 1am. Marvelous work darling, MARVELOUS!
hey dude,
the images i took today of my D.I.Y so i’ve already done my homework!! haha
i know how much you secretly love it when i source my images from google though…
!
I want you to be my best friend so we can eat together (or better yet, I can eat your cooking) and play dress up!
Love Jewel Bako. Everything about it is perfect!
Good God, this post is CRAZY! I love it! You’re right, everything looks like a little jewel, including the tiny little black onyx eyes on the fresh kill… man! Those chefs must love you, getting mad hands-on with all their gorgeous little bites!
luv your blog! your pics are aaamazing!
Good GOD woman.
The quality of the fish really shines through in your photos (did you end up having to use the flash? that didn't bother the chef?)
It's so funny that you mention a Mexican rolling the sushi. I recently bought sushi rolled by a Mexican guy who was also the restaurant's contractor. While he put together my rolls he was discussing the new flooring with the owner.
Please share if you find a good source of fresh wasabi root. I can't find it anywhere.
Oh, and eel that's not charred beyond recognition and slathered in sauce? Fabulous.
This is utterly exquisite. drooling on the keyboard.
you don’t really think a guy who works under a sushi master would not eat sushi just because he’s mexican, do you? mexicans have regular-people taste buds just like white and asian people… they don’t all just eat rice and beans…
You know, I hate sterotypes about Latinos. It is quite silly of you to assume that just because the guy is mexican that he can’t enjoy sushi like any other person. We don’t all eat just rice and beans and meat. There are plenty of vegetables and fish dishes mexican cuisine but most dishes have been “fixed” by Americans who say that’s what it’s supposed to be. Some of the best restraunts have mexicans working in the kitchen. Yes, even Asian ones. I’m sure he got a job as a sushi maker because he likes sushi. Make a point of asking him next time.
Idk man, seems kind of cruel to be eating something alive, couldn’t you have waited 10 more seconds?
Great blog! Sorry to change the subject, but, since Nashville is a big up and coming city, I’m looking for a great Nashville sushi restaurant or Japanese restaurant. Have you heard of any good ones? There’s a new one called Nomzilla Sushi Et Cetera, but I’ve only seen a few reviews. Here’s the address of this new Nashville Japanese Restaurant, 1201 Villa Place, Suite 101 Nashville, TN 37212 – (615) 268-1424. Thoughts? Thanks!