5 days of the week

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Lately I’ve really been in a strange place- at least outfit wise. I wear black, all the time (not even charcoal or navy things, just black). I have these Mossimo long sleeve crew neck shirts from Target (about 40 identical) and I wear them EVERY SINGLE DAY. I feel paralyzed without them.. but I am sick of looking like I’m heading to a funeral. The other day someone asked…are you a cleaning lady??… There are people who are lazy about getting dressed up, and then there are people like me who’ve reached a new plateau of laziness, I’m even starting to feel ashamed about the way I look. There are women who HAVE a good excuse for looking like a slob, most of them have just given birth or are child-rearing. Not me! I mean, I keep saying to myself..’pull it together and put some makeup on, even if it’s so you don’t offend other people!’ I knew I needed nice pieces that were pulled together, pieces that I didn’t have to think about so much in those painful morning hours, clothes that were COMFORTABLE and anti-fussy…..but at the same time the thought of shopping was a nightmare. All I want to buy is Alaia and I can’t afford it..I had to design and make my own reality…

*****Edit: I’m getting many e-mails asking similar questions so I’ll answer them here. The two leopard moto jackets I had in the shop both sold and I will not be making more because I do not have enough leopard calf hide left to reproduce it. The lace, snakeskin and purple dresses are also items I can’t restock (had very few quantities, 3 of each). The nude motorcycle jackets and snakeskin jackets are available for PRE-ORDER in sizes 6 and 8 along with the 4, all of the measurements are listed in the description page for each size<—Click>.

Some sketches… I wanted to design pieces that are directly influenced from the key items in my wardrobe, which are long sleeved crew neck shirts (my beloved ones from target) and jackets (blazers, or motorcycle jackets)

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One of the most important things about a jacket is the kind of closures or zippers one uses. To the left is an Excella YKK zipper (#10) and to the right is a cheap zipper I picked up from a regular notions store in midtown…It took me two months to get these zippers, I had to order then from a private vendor because these are hard to come by nowadays.. The quality difference is very noticeable when the final items are produced.

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These zippers are used frequently for high end production, the zipper teeth are much tighter and heavier than the flimsy teeth of the cheaper brand.

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What I set out to do is stick to the new uniform, but have that uniform change in design, not shape. I used the same base pattern for these jackets…

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I kept thinking, the morning hours are awful..the last thing I want to do is calculate what I’m going to wear, strut back and forth from my dresser to the mirror and freak out-I’m not one of those people that can effortlessly put together a ‘good’ outfit…any feeling of SLIGHT discomfort and I’m taking it off no questions asked. I knew that fit would be instrumental when it comes to daily wear..I notice that I usually go for the jacket that is 1. the most comfortable, and 2. has the best fit. These jackets are structured so that they are still loose but fitted enough so that they don’t look over sized.

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Again with the fit. Something shaped to a woman’s figure (with a waist and narrow shoulders) but also a hem that doesn’t cling to your body. I wanted the silhouette of these jackets to be modified, with the back tilting upwards, like it is in movement.

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Now that I had the jackets issue solved, what I needed was the shirt. A lot of times when I’m designing, I think about what I want in that collection or piece of clothing…but this time? I made of list of things I DON’T WANT, and this list would tell me exactly what I needed to design.

#1 No collars
#2 No jersey or Knit or any kind of fabric that clings or sticks to the body
#3 No mumu-esque drapes
#4 Nothing tight
#5 Nothing that falls above the hips
#6 No v-necks, square necks, turtle necks, or anything that chokes me.
#7 No darts
#8 Nothing that I could potentially wear to the gym
#9 No fussy draping, pleating, or complicated closures.

There was one thing I did want, and that was a perfectly finished round neck with facing. I also chose to use crepes and silks and crepe-polyester blends..yep…woven’s only. I wanted something a bit more formal. This shirt had to also be the kind of length where you could wear it both as a mini dress, and a long shirt. And the sleeves sure as hell shouldn’t be tight!

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And then what I want, just as I have with the jackets, are options. Different colors I like and look forward to wearing. I love minty green and purple..as well as black, and lace. And some snake skin print is good too.

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I lined all the jackets with the same fabric, I wanted one color and method that would anchor the whole group. I used silver bias binding as an accent to the inner lining, and self facing for the hem so that the double leather thickness would add some structure to the hem. If I had just finished the lining in the purple fabric the bottom hem would look very flighty and wouldn’t anchor down.

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Day 1…Mock snakeskin biker jacket with lace shirt.

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Lace is $50 a yard. Thank god I didn’t need too much.
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I wanted the hem of this dress to mimic the holey, linear texture of the lace…I didn’t want to do a fold over hem because then the lace would stiffen up at the bottom and wouldn’t be as loose..Instead I attached one nylon thread to add a visual period to the dress.

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Day 2, Leopard and suede motorcycle jacket with purple long sleeved shirt.

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I didn’t want the belt tips to flop around, I secured them with a magnet on the shell of the fabric so they wouldn’t move so much.

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Day 3…This is the modified nipple biker jacket, I made this before but I wanted to do it all in leather this time and no spandex (though I do love spandex)….I used a shiny charcoal leather that has this linear pattern, it almost looks like skin closeup…

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The jackets are all versatile, you can easily dress it down with jeans and shirts..

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Day 4, Mock Stud motorcycle jacket with mint green silk shirt. This leather has a slightly 3-d texture, the leather is shaped to create these little bulbous points which are then coated with silver paint.

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…and day 5, laser cut leather jacket backed with nude tulle.

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Wearing underneath: black long sleeved shirt in black matte stretch crepe polyester.

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The drawings, the pattern making, the cutting, the sewing, the photography and styling…are all by me. There isn’t one seam here that was closed by another person. I will admit I have the assistance of machines. I know there is a lot of gossiping and suspicion going around about who does what. As I said before I will be upfront with any collaborations or work being sent out. Everything is available in the shop, just click the icon on the top right.